Someone recently asked me for recommendations for Donosti (San Sebastián), Spain. They didn’t want the usual what-to-do for this wonderful resort city, but rather “what’s great?” Having visited this city several times, including spending an entire month here in 2023, I definitely have my favorites.
Here is my personal list of recommendations.
Go to Bar Antonio for Breakfast
Have the tortilla de patatas and a latte or cappuccino at this bar (Bergara Kalea, 3). This was one of the best tortilla de patatas (potato omelette) we had in the Basque Country. I LOVE tortilla de patatas and have tasted many, but this one rises above the rest, mostly because it is flavored with caramelized onions, which make it outstanding.
Walk along the Malecon (beachfront promenade) in the morning
The morning walkers are mostly locals, whereas the afternoon is a more touristy crowd. I enjoy being among the locals, hearing them speaking Euskera (Basque) and Spanish. And the view of the beach and ocean is spectacular from one end to the other.
If you make it all the way to the southernmost end of the beaches, along Eduardo Chillida Pasealekua street, you will see the famous Wind Comb sculpture by Basque artist Eduardo Chillida.
Sunbathe and Swim at the Beach during the Summer
The beach here is amazing. It has been declared by many sources as perhaps the best beach in Europe. Being a big beach person, I agree. This is partly due to the beauty of the La Concha bay, with its two anchor hills (Monte Urgull and Monte Igeldo) at either side. Santa Clara Island at the mouth of the bay also keeps the waves from getting too big. Plus the sand is deliciously soft (I suspect it’s been imported)
Top beach: La Concha. 2nd favorite: Ondarreta (fewer tourists, more families). Zurriola to the north is windier, but if you want to surf, this is where you go. Lots of surf shops here offer lessons.
It rains a lot in the Basque Country, even in the summer. So you must stay here a minimum of 3-4 days, to ensure at least one beach day. You won’t regret it.
Eat Pintxos in Alde Zaharra (Old Town)
Pintxo hopping takes place around lunchtime or from 8 p.m. on. I could name a few places, but honestly, they are all pretty good. The hard part will be getting in to the bars and finding a space to eat and drink with your party, so focus on that. Some bars have tables in the far back, which might be better for a large party, but that usually takes more time. Most people prefer to have one or two pintxos and one drink at each place.
An important note: Order hot made-to-order pintxos that come from the kitchen. Don’t pick the cold pintxos that are sitting at the bar, unless you are there early and can tell they are fresh. Many places have a specialty pintxo. Be sure to try those.
If you are willing to try something different, go to Bar Txepetxa (Arrandege Kalea, 5) a historic award-winning bar where many fresh anchovy and seafood pintxos are served. The Gambas a la Gabardina (battered prawns) pintxo in Paco Bueno (Calle Mayor, 6) is also amazing, but this bar is only open at lunchtime. Last time I saw their schedule, it was 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.
Eat Pintxos in Gros
You have to cross the bridge from Old Town to get to the Gros neighborhood. Again, many good places for pintxos. They are less crowded than the bars in the Old Town and host more locals. The one place not to miss is Bar Zabaleta, famous for its tortilla de patatas. You might have to wait a bit for a table in the outdoor patio, but it’s a good place to have dinner.
Eat Ice Cream and People Watch Along La Bretxa
The walkway area along Alameda del “Boulevard” (also named Blvd. Zumardia), with its historic bandstand, is known as La Bretxa. Buy your ice cream nearby and then sit somewhere on La Bretxa and watch the people go by. The ice cream at every shop is delicious. There’s Piccola Venezia, Gelateria Boulevard, Locopolo and then Arnoldo Izozki-denda on the other side of the boulevard.
Walk up Monte Urgull
First of all, the views of the ocean and the city from the top are amazing. The pathway is shaded with many trees and offers a lovely respite from the heat. There are many entryways and pathways going up. The area around the enormous statue of Jesus Christ at the top offers a magnificent place to take photos. And there’s also a cute small museum, Castillo de la Mota (open Saturdays and Sundays May to August 11 a.m. – 7 p.m.)
Visit the San Telmo Museoa
This museum in the heart of the Old Town is worth a visit. It has excellent exhibits, which are changing all the time. The permanent exhibit gives a good overview of Basque society and culture through the years and within the global European context. All information is posted in English, Spanish and Basque. The building itself, with a traditional historic courtyard that was part of a former Dominican friar convent, and modern touches added, is worth it alone.
Wander the Grounds of Miramar Jauregia
This palace, commissioned by Spain’s royal family in 1893, was once the Spanish queen’s castle. The magnificent building is now used for university classes and is not open to the public, but the gardens are. They are lovely and have a magnificent view of the beach and ocean. Stroll through the gardens or sit and contemplate the view.
My One Remaining Bucket List item
I still haven’t made it to the top of Monte Igeldo. There’s a short funicular railway that takes you to the top to visit a vintage amusement park. I think it would be great fun and plan prioritize this spot on my next visit.
